Taiwan Oolong Tea Varieties
(Formosa Wulong Tea)
An Overview

Chinese oolong tea can be classified into four regions:

• Northern Fujian (e.g. Wuyi Rock tea)
  
  
• Southern Fujian (e.g. Anxi Tieguanyin tea)
  
  
• Guangdong (e.g. Phoenix Dancong tea)
  
  
• Taiwan

Taiwan oolong tea has a relatively short history. While China's oolong tea history can be traced back to 16th century, Taiwan didn't get started until 19th century.

Initially, they took most of their plants and processing techniques from the Fujian province.

Over time, they came to develop their own style, which now covers the widest spectrum of tastes and flavours of oolong tea.

I list below the 5 most important types of Taiwan oolong tea, in ascending order of oxidation.

Also known as Qing Cha or Pouchong, it is characterised by low oxidation (8% to 18%), low withering (8% to 12%) and light rolling. It is the most green of oolong tea.

It was originally processed like the Wuyi Rock tea and is long and curly.

It is classified according to where it is grown. There are 3 varieties:

• Wenshan
  
  
• Nangang
  
  
• Lanyang

Wenshan Baozhong tea is the single largest tea produced in Taiwan.

Perhaps the most famous of Taiwan oolong tea, it is also known as Tung Ting oolong tea.

It grows in Dongding Mountain (Frozen Peak) at 600 to 1,200 metres above sea level.

It is characterised by medium oxidation (15% to 25%), medium withering and medium rolling. It is half ball-shaped.

Authentic Dongding tea comes from a part of the Mountain called

Dongding Taidi. Properly speaking, only tea produced here can be called Dongding tea.

Tea grown outside the Taidi at lower altitude is called Dongjiao Cha (Frozen Leg Tea).

Like Dongding tea, Gaoshan tea too is characterised by medium oxidation, medium withering, medium rolling, and semi ball-shape.

Gaoshan means high mountain. Gaoshan tea grows at high altitude of 1,000 metres. The Gaoshan varieties consist of

• Meishan
  
  
• Alishan
  
  
• Yushan
  
  
• Wushe
  
  
• Lishan

Of which, Alishan tea is the priciest and most highly regarded.

In Taiwan, Tieguanyin tea includes the entire family of ball-shaped oolong tea.

It is characterised by medium oxidation, medium withering and heavy rolling.

The two most well known varieties are

• Mu Zha (Wooden Gate)
  
  
• Shi Men (Stone Door)

The Mu Zha variety is the most highly regarded.

The most exotic of oolong tea, Champagne Oolong is made of young tea shoots (one-bud-and-two-leaves) rather than the more matured leaves that other oolong teas typically use.

It is characterised by heavy oxidation (50% to 70%) and heavy withering (13% to 25%).

It is the closest thing oolong tea has to Chinese red tea.

It has many names:

• Champagne Oolong Tea (Xiangbing)

It is customary to add a couple of drops of alcohol (champagne or Bailandi) to enhance its flavour.

• White Hair Oolong Tea (Baihao)

The tea is made of very young leaves, which are covered with white hairs.

• Puff Tea (Pengfeng)

The tea is very expensive. People drinking it are thought to be a show-off.

• Oriental Beauty (Dongfang Meiren)

According to a legend, Queen Elizabeth of England once remarked that the brightly coloured tea liquor resembled a beautiful woman.

Since the tea comes from the East, it is called Oriental Beauty.

Zheng Lisheng (2006). Wulong Cha Jianshang. Zhongguo Qinggongye Chubanshe.

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