Chinese Tea Appreciation
Tasting
Terminologies
How to appreciate Chinese tea the Chinese way? Here is a classification of what to look out for ...
High grade Chinese tea is like a great song. It crosses cultural gaps. But
palate is not human emotion. Considering the vast differences between the
Chinese and Western cuisine, it is amazing how Chinese tea finds acceptance in
many first time Western drinkers.
The way Westerners described tea sensations are much more concrete than the
Chinese. Thousands of years of Chinese tea history has evolved into a system
which is comprehensive but concise, like the Chinese language, and almost
impenetrable to first time drinkers.
So when I shared these Chinese tea terminologies with Danica, I was quite
surprised she found them helpful.
I mean, which do you prefer? High and pure aroma or creamy, vanilla and
caramel?
Are you ready to begin?
When enjoying a Chinese tea, there are 9 basic criterion:
1. Xiang: Fragrance. Aroma.
Dried leaf. Tea cup. Tea liquor.
With oolong tea, tasters should distinguish between natural and artificial
fragrance.
A high grade is naturally floral and fruity. A low grade acquired its
fragrance from extended baking. It is known as Huo Gong Xiang (Fire Work
Aroma).
Different teas have a different fragrance.
-
A Weshan Baozhong, being lightly oxidised, is more "Xian" (akin to green
tea) or fresh smelling, with light floral frgrance.
-
A Tieguanyin tea or Phoenix Dancong tea is floral/fruity, with the
Tieguanyin tea being more delicate than a Dancong tea.
-
Wuyi tea is more fruity. A Baihao Oolong (Oriental Beauty) is more oxidised
and thus more "ripe" and smelled like honey.
There are 3 different aspects of fragrance:
-
Is it normal? Is there any abnormal smell?
-
Is it high or low? Pure or crude?
-
How durable is the fragrance?
1.1. Yan Yun. Yin Yun.
Fragrance specific to Rock tea or Tieguanyin tea.
1.2. Nong Yu
Characteristics of high grade. Strong and lasting aroma with their
chacracteris floral flavour.
1.3. Fu Yu
Better and more obvious than Nong Yu (1.2), Probably that of a Phoenix
Dancong tea.
1.4.Nong Lie.
Stimulating and even piercing (?) fragrance that is strong and lasting.
1.5. Qing Gao
Fragrance that is high and soothing. Lasting but not Nong Yu (1.2).
Probably refers more to lightly oxidised oolong teas such as Wenshan Baozhong
or green tea.
1.6. Qing Xiang
Fragrance that is pure, light and long. Might be a lousier version of 1.5 but
not sure.
1.7. Chun Zhen
Normal fragrance. No strange smell.
1.8. Ping He
Low fragrance. No strange smell.
1.9. Di Chen
Low fragrance. Stuffy and boring.
1.10. Qing Qi
Grassy. Vegetable.
1.11. Ri Sai Qi
Strange smell caused by sun drying.
1.12. Hua Xiang
Floral. Usually orchid or cassia.
1.13. Guo Xiang
Fruity. Usually plum, tangerine.
1.14. Nai Xiang
Milk fragrance. Taiwanese oolong (Jin Xuan).
1.15. Jiao Tang Wei
Burnt sugar. Caused by excessive roasting with too high temperature.
1.16. Lao Huo Xiang
Like 1.15 but less fiery.
1.17. Di Yu Xiang
Geography related, such as Wuyi
1.18. Yan Wei
Smoky. After absorbing the fuel smell.
1.19. Jiao Wei
Leaf has been partially burnt.
1.20. Suan Sou Wei
Smell of rotten food. Sour.
1.21. Chen Wei
No longer fresh. Tea has gone stale from exposing to air and moisture.
2.1 Xian Shuang
Refreshing and lively. Used for green tea?
2.2 Yun Wei
Geography related. Such as Yin Yun and Yan Yun.
2.3 Chun Hou. Nong Hou
Rich and flavourful body. Refers to high grade oolong tea. May mean
mellowness?
2.4 Chun Zhen. Chun He
Right balance of flavours. Tastes like what it should taste like.
2.5 Zhong Ye Wei
Tastes like steamed banana skin?
2.6 Hua Xiang Wei
Liquor that is fresh and floral. Also called "water fragrance".
2.7 Ku Se
Bitter and astringent. Refers to green tea or summer teas.
2.8 Qing Se
Vegetal and astringent.
2.9 Chu Se
Old or coarse and astringent.
2.10 Wei Ku
Bitter but not astringent
2.11 Ping Dan. Qing Dan.
Right balance of flavours. But too light and not strong enough.
2.12 Shou Lian Xing
Nong Hou (2.3) but stimulating. Causes the mouth to
contract and tighten.
Sweet aftertaste
Yin Yun refers to Tieguanyin tea. Yan Yun refers to Wuyi Rock tea. Shan Yun
refers to a high mountain oolong such as Phoenix Dancong.
The dried leaves can be classified as below:
5.1 Tiao Suo
Just means curly leaf. Can be rounded, semi rounded or just curly.
5.2 Jin Xi
Very tight and small. Made from fresh leaf that is tender.
5.3 Jin Jie
Like (5.2), but less tender leaf. Standard oolong is made from leaf that
matures to half the size of a full grown (called middle open face).
This term still describes a high grade.
5.4 Zhong Shi
Heavy. Leaf is tender and fat. When curled tightly, it feels heavy.
5.5 Qing Piao
Low grade tea that feels light.
5.6 Zhuang Jie
Made from leaf that is older but big. Curled tightly together. But lower
grade than (5.2) and (5.3).
5.7 Chu Zhuang
Leaf is even older/coarser than (5.6), quite big, still quite tight.
5.8 Chu Song
Like (5.7), but not tight. Loose.
5.9 Song Tiao
Not tight. But tender leaf.
5.10 Wan Juan
Curly like a bow.
5.11 Juan Qu
Curly like a snail. Probably just means more curly than (5.10).
5.12 Yuan Jie
Rounded and tight.
5.13 Ting Zhi
Tight but straight and flat.
5.14 Jun Zhen
Uniformity of size and coarseness/delicateness.
5.15 Duan Cui
Fragmented. Mostly lower body left.
5.16 Qing Ting Tou
Dragonfly head. Big head, gradually smaller body.
5.17 Shen Gu
Weight of tea. Just used as a tea term.
The wet leaves can be classified as below:
5.1 Fei Hou
Fat and thick. Leaf is so fleshy that it conceals the stem.
5.2 Rou Ruan
Soft. Good quality fresh leaf.
5.3 Ruan Liang
Soft and with lustre. Better than (5.2).
5.4.Jun Neng
Uniformity of tenderness. Identical colour.
5.5 Ying Ting
Old leaf. Hard stem. Leaf opens only when pressed.
5.6 Qing Zhang
Leaf is green due to insufficient withering and oxidation.
5.7 Hua Qing
? I really can't relate to this one.... It means flower green. Leaf that is
light-green/red but has darker green.
5.8 Jun Qi, Jun Zhen
Uniformity of colour and tenderness.
5.9 Qian Jun
Non uniformity of colour and tenderness.
5.10 Kai Zhang
Leaf opens when brewed.
5.11 Qian Zhang
Leaf does not open when brewed.
5.12 Jiao Ban, Jiao Tiao
Leaf is parially black, burnt or yellow-ed.
5.13 Hong Rang Bian
Fresh leaf surrounded by bright, red borders. Sign of good bruising/oxidation.
5.14 Huang Lu
Means yellow green. Normal colour. Yellow leaf with greenish colour.
5.15 An Hong
Dark red leaf with no lustre. Due to unsuccessful bruising/oxidation.
Liveliness. Smooth.
Dried tea. Tea liquor. Wet leaf.
Wuyi rock tea should be dark and glossy. Liquor should be golden yellow.
Tienguanyin tea should be bright green. Liquor should be greenish yellow.
7.1 Jing Huang
Golden yellow. Clear, golden and bright. Mainly yellow. Can be dark or light
yellow.
7.2 Chen Huang
Orangy yellow. More reddish. Similar to dark yellow.
7.3 Chen Hong
Orangy red. Dark yellow and more reddish.
7.4 Qian Huang
Light Yellow
7.5 An Hong
Dark red. Not transparent or clear.
7.6 Ming Liang
Uniformity of liquor colour. Clear and transparent. No cloudiness or
particles.
7.7 Hui Zhuo
Floating stuff in the tea liquor. Poor transparency. Can't see the bottom of
cup. Due to poor quality leaves picked during rainy days etc.
7.8 Hui An
As per (7.7) and even darker.
Brightness. High grade liquor should be clear and bright. Wet leaf should
have lustre.
Durability of fragrance and taste.
Even-ness of quality between infusions, wet leaf oxidation and
tenderness.
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